Wednesday, April 16, 2014
Winners Announcement!
Camo bunny is excited to ship to his new home with....
Callie Tilkins
$12 credit to Sew Charming by Becky goes to....
Brittany Dawn Harper
Congratulations ladies!
Please contact me ASAP to claim your prize.
Saturday, April 12, 2014
Sewing yourself up for Success - part 1 (Tools)
Okay scouts, you should know this one... in order to be successful you must first... be prepared!
This is very true for sewing. If you don't have the things you need, you'll be frustrated, rushed and stressed. Trust me, I've been there. Rushing leads to cutting corners, sometimes literally. Yes - I have cut projects where I didn't mean to. Shoot, I even cut my measuring tape in half when I didn't clean my cutting surface. I learned the hard way. Trust me, its not fun.
So, what do you need?
Fabric. Pre-washed. ALWAYS pre-wash. Nothing stinks more than making a masterpiece just to throw it into the washer and dryer and it no longer fits. 44" of cotton (regular width) shrinks 2" during the washing and drying process.
Color Catcher. Your reds and blues very well may bleed. I always suggest a Tide color catcher going in the wash with new vibrant fabrics. It will save (or, should) the rest of your load of laundry.
Fabric scissors. Yes, you need scissors for fabric. And only fabric. Cutting paper with fabric scissors dulls them. My husband knows I will cut him if he uses my fabric scissors for anything. That is, I would cut him if I didn't shoot angry lasers out of my eyes to kill him first.
Seam ripper. This undoes all the oopsies. My favorite is a Dritz seam ripper that has rubber watchamacallits on the end that actually 'sweeps' away all the tiny little pieces of thread that appear as you rip a seam.
Sewing machine. And manual. I won't be able to give you step by step instructions for how to thread your machine or what bobbin to use or which stitches your machine has - thats why you need your manual. If you don't have one, you can probably download one from the manufacturer's website. All you'll need is your model number.
Thread. It always looks best if you have it to match your fabric, but you don't have to. You can absolutely get by with the simple black or white thread. All of my sewing threads are Coats and Clark. (Be sure you have thread in the bobbin also)
Marking pen. I like the blue kind that disappears in water. There are chalks and pencils that will work also. The only one I don't recommend is the purple one that should disappear with exposure to the air, because one time it didn't disappear.
Measuring tape or ruler. I really strongly suggest getting a firm ruler. I have the 3" x 18" kind they sell by the rotary cutters. You can use a tape, but you'll have to be extra careful that its not bending when you are using it.
Needles. For different materials, you need different needles. For sewing cotton (which I suggest you use to begin), you can use a universal needle.
Pins. These are different than needles. You need pins to keep your fabric together in the right place until you sew it together. I suggest getting the kind with a plastic ball on the end if you plan on sewing a lot. If you have just plain metal pins, they will scratch your skin and if you pin enough, you'll end up with a hole in your thumb. Been there, done that. You can get WonderClips instead, but sometimes those are difficult to maneuver around.
Pin cushion or magnetic pin holder. Seriously, you need one. Otherwise the pins will end up in your carpet.
Seam guide. No idea what its called, but for younger sewists (each of my daughters has one) or those who tend to wander, this is a great tool for making sure your stitches are straight. It won't work on everything (like curves), but its a great tool! It magnetically attaches to the plate and you can adjust it so that your seam allowance should be spot on.
This is very true for sewing. If you don't have the things you need, you'll be frustrated, rushed and stressed. Trust me, I've been there. Rushing leads to cutting corners, sometimes literally. Yes - I have cut projects where I didn't mean to. Shoot, I even cut my measuring tape in half when I didn't clean my cutting surface. I learned the hard way. Trust me, its not fun.
So, what do you need?
Fabric. Pre-washed. ALWAYS pre-wash. Nothing stinks more than making a masterpiece just to throw it into the washer and dryer and it no longer fits. 44" of cotton (regular width) shrinks 2" during the washing and drying process.
Color Catcher. Your reds and blues very well may bleed. I always suggest a Tide color catcher going in the wash with new vibrant fabrics. It will save (or, should) the rest of your load of laundry.
Fabric scissors. Yes, you need scissors for fabric. And only fabric. Cutting paper with fabric scissors dulls them. My husband knows I will cut him if he uses my fabric scissors for anything. That is, I would cut him if I didn't shoot angry lasers out of my eyes to kill him first.
Seam ripper. This undoes all the oopsies. My favorite is a Dritz seam ripper that has rubber watchamacallits on the end that actually 'sweeps' away all the tiny little pieces of thread that appear as you rip a seam.
Sewing machine. And manual. I won't be able to give you step by step instructions for how to thread your machine or what bobbin to use or which stitches your machine has - thats why you need your manual. If you don't have one, you can probably download one from the manufacturer's website. All you'll need is your model number.
Thread. It always looks best if you have it to match your fabric, but you don't have to. You can absolutely get by with the simple black or white thread. All of my sewing threads are Coats and Clark. (Be sure you have thread in the bobbin also)
Marking pen. I like the blue kind that disappears in water. There are chalks and pencils that will work also. The only one I don't recommend is the purple one that should disappear with exposure to the air, because one time it didn't disappear.
Measuring tape or ruler. I really strongly suggest getting a firm ruler. I have the 3" x 18" kind they sell by the rotary cutters. You can use a tape, but you'll have to be extra careful that its not bending when you are using it.
Needles. For different materials, you need different needles. For sewing cotton (which I suggest you use to begin), you can use a universal needle.
Pins. These are different than needles. You need pins to keep your fabric together in the right place until you sew it together. I suggest getting the kind with a plastic ball on the end if you plan on sewing a lot. If you have just plain metal pins, they will scratch your skin and if you pin enough, you'll end up with a hole in your thumb. Been there, done that. You can get WonderClips instead, but sometimes those are difficult to maneuver around.
Pin cushion or magnetic pin holder. Seriously, you need one. Otherwise the pins will end up in your carpet.
Seam guide. No idea what its called, but for younger sewists (each of my daughters has one) or those who tend to wander, this is a great tool for making sure your stitches are straight. It won't work on everything (like curves), but its a great tool! It magnetically attaches to the plate and you can adjust it so that your seam allowance should be spot on.
Thursday, January 23, 2014
Lining and adding pockets to a fold over tote tute
Sorry, I had to say tote tute. LOL, I never use the word "tute" but I just had to!
Moving on, the body of what I used is here, on Me Sew Crazy, a blog I absolutely recommend you follow!
This is an intermediate tutorial as I did not take really detailed pictures. If I didn't explain something well enough that you can understand and replicate it, please post your questions and I'll answer!
I cut out the following:
The first thing I did was fold my pockets in half and sew so that three edges were closed.
Then you flip your pocket so it is rightside out and there is only one side with raw edges. Serge or zig zag stitch over the raw edges. Attach it upside down to where you want the bottom of the pocket to be, and stitch. Then flip it so it isn't upside down anymore and stitch the sides down. For my mom's, I wanted small places to slide her crochet hooks into, so I ran extra stitch lines down one of my pockets.
For the inner pocket, folded in half hamburger style, then did everything in the last paragraph except for sewing the sides down. This pocket was wide enough that the sides would be caught when I sewed the side seam of the bag together, but you can do it now if you really want to be sure it stays sewn down.
The only other change I made to Palak's original pattern was to add two attachments with D-rings or swivels. This allows me to move my over the shoulder strap depending on how full it is. My D ring straps are 3" apart from each other.
After that, I put my shoulder straps where I would want them to go, and I put my lining on the outside. Be sure, at this point that your right sides are facing each other. You should not be able to see the pretty side of your fabric at all. Pin every 2-3" all the way around. Sew all the way around except for a 6" gap. Then turn the fabrics rightside out by pulling through the gap you just left.
Now all the is left is to topstitch all the way around the top. To be sure there wouldn't be a raw edge where the gap was, I used the far left stitch when the fabrics were rightside together, then I moved the needle to center for doing the topstitch. You don't *have to* but I recommend it!
Moving on, the body of what I used is here, on Me Sew Crazy, a blog I absolutely recommend you follow!
This is an intermediate tutorial as I did not take really detailed pictures. If I didn't explain something well enough that you can understand and replicate it, please post your questions and I'll answer!
I cut out the following:
- 4 rectangles 24″x21″ (2 of inner fabric, 2 of outer)
- 2 rectangles 4 inches by 26″ (outer fabric only)
- 1 4″x45 inch strip (outer fabric only)
- 4 4″ x 3″ inch rectangles (outer fabric only)
- 2 14 x 4" (these are my two outer pockets, if you want yours larger, make the adjustments before cutting) If you want to put a cell phone in one of these pockets, take your cell phone measurements, double the height and add 1"; and take the width and add 1.5". Example: your phone is 5" tall by 3" wide... 5x2=10, plus 1 is 11... 3+1.5= 4.5. Cut your pocket piece at 11x4.5".
- 1 40 x 6" (this is my inner pocket, again, if you want to adjust it, make all changes before cutting)
- 4 d rings or loops and 2 swivel purse attachments OR 6 swivel purse attachments (I recommend six swivel purse attachments, but that is not what I used.
- Ironing Board
- Iron
- Sewing Machine
- Thread
- Scissors (I was being lazy and used my seam ripper to cut the thread after each piece I sewed.... I tried to will it to my hand from the cutting table, but the force is not strong with me)
 |
| My inside out pocket |
Then you flip your pocket so it is rightside out and there is only one side with raw edges. Serge or zig zag stitch over the raw edges. Attach it upside down to where you want the bottom of the pocket to be, and stitch. Then flip it so it isn't upside down anymore and stitch the sides down. For my mom's, I wanted small places to slide her crochet hooks into, so I ran extra stitch lines down one of my pockets.
 |
| This is where I turned my pockets upside down and then stitched where i wanted the bottom to be. When you flip the pocket up, what looks like the top will be the bottom. |
 |
| See how the extra lines allow me to stand up my crochet needles? This would also work for pens and pencils. |
For the inner pocket, folded in half hamburger style, then did everything in the last paragraph except for sewing the sides down. This pocket was wide enough that the sides would be caught when I sewed the side seam of the bag together, but you can do it now if you really want to be sure it stays sewn down.
The only other change I made to Palak's original pattern was to add two attachments with D-rings or swivels. This allows me to move my over the shoulder strap depending on how full it is. My D ring straps are 3" apart from each other.
After that, I put my shoulder straps where I would want them to go, and I put my lining on the outside. Be sure, at this point that your right sides are facing each other. You should not be able to see the pretty side of your fabric at all. Pin every 2-3" all the way around. Sew all the way around except for a 6" gap. Then turn the fabrics rightside out by pulling through the gap you just left.
Now all the is left is to topstitch all the way around the top. To be sure there wouldn't be a raw edge where the gap was, I used the far left stitch when the fabrics were rightside together, then I moved the needle to center for doing the topstitch. You don't *have to* but I recommend it!
Sunday, December 22, 2013
Christmas Envelope Pillows - 45 minute Project
This is 100% NOT the original project that I had in mind but it is way more practical and you can definitely adjust it for any holiday.
Today we will be making an envelope pillowcase. It is called and envelope because the back will be able to easily open and will fold over itself to appear closed, like an envelope does.
Jo-Ann Craft and Fabric stores sent me a $50 gift card so I could make a #fabulouslyfestive craft tutorial, so I ran over to get some supplies (I have enough left over for a second tutorial, so keep your eyes peeled!). BTW I love the Cary, NC store! I'm working out the logistics on how to transplant it to Jacksonville.... :0)
Main fabric (red for Santa, green for elf) 5/8 yard (to allow for shrinkage during pre-wash)
Black fabric 6"
Yellow fabric 8"
Don't forget your coupon! Scroll down to the bottom of the blog, print it out and take it to your nearest JoAnn store for some great deals! Your shopping list is also at the bottom so you can print the coupon and list together. Please remember this list will complete a 17x17" pillowcase.
First measure your pillow. Mine is about 17" so I'm going to give myself 1/2 seam allowance at top, bottom and both sides.
Example: my pillow was 17 x 17 so my front piece was 18" x 18"
my large back piece was 16" x 18"
my small back piece was 6" x 18"
The yellow fabric will be a 6"x6" square.
Iron your long belt piece top and bottom over 1/4- 1/2"
Iron your yellow and black squares, on all sides, 1/4-1/2" over.
Next, place your yellow and black belt pieces down at the same time. I stitched my black square down first so I wouldn't have to change my thread twice. :)
Grab your back top and back bottom pieces. Iron the long end over twice so your raw edges aren't showing. Then stitch this down. I used my left align stitch so it would be close to the ironed edge.
Now we are going to put it all together. It will look like this....
Front side facing up.
If you have a serger you can serge the raw edge. If you do not, you can either zig-zag stitch to prevent fraying, or just cut with pinking shears and call it a day!
|
| I like to use at least one piece of quilting cotton with a bit of a pattern so the pillow doesn't look so 'flat'. It gives it just a bit more dimension! |
JoAnns shopping list:
Main fabric (red for Santa, green for elf) 5/8 yard (to allow for shrinkage during pre-wash)
Black fabric 6"
Yellow fabric 8"
Check out more fun tutorials and ideas here joann.com/celebrate-
And if you make one of these pillows, please comment with a picture! I'd love to see it!
To find this tutorial more easily if you want to make it later, pin it!
JoAnn Fabric and Craft stores did compensate me a gift card in exchange for this blog post, but all ideas, photographs and opinions stated therein are my own.
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