Warrior Cloak Sew Along: Day 3

Alright, to start, make sure you have your cloak with sleeves attached and sides sewn up. This is where we left off yesterday. Today, we are adding the last steps!

Step 1: Assemble hood. You'll sew along the back, then hem the front (around the face)

Step 2: Attach the hood. See photos below for in-depth explanation.

a) Lay the cloak down in front of you. Right side facing up.

b) Then, lay the hood down. Leave about 1" space on the left and right. Match at center, then gather and pin so it will evenly spaced while you stitch it down.

c) Here is where your bias strip will come in handy. If you don't have any extra fabric (I used a 20" and had some hanging off the ends as you can see), you can use a strip of bias tape. If you use a bias strip, fold it in half like I did. If you use bias tape, open it up so the folds are facing the hood. You'll want it to look like the folds are valleys, not sticking up like mountains. Pin and stitch.

d) Next, flip the cloak over. See how my hand is pushing the hood up and pulling the cloak down at the same time? You'll need to do this when you pin your bias strip down so you don't end up catching the hood or cloak, or bunching it from left to right.

e) Here's an upside down picture of how it looks pinned. When you stitch, go slowly to make sure there is no gathering or bunching. Make sure you are stitching near the bottom so all of the ugly raw edges are caught inside your stitch line.

 This is how it looks when you are done. Man, that is CLEAN!

 Step 3: Fold your sides over, then fold over again and pin. You'll do this on the left and right, then stitch.

Step 4: Repeat step 3 with bottom hem and sleeves.

Then you're done, and you've got an awesome looking cloak!

Warrior Cloak Sew Along: Day 2

Today is a simple day -

Step 1, attach cloak back to cloak front at shoulders
Step 2, attach sleeves to cloak
Step 3, Sew sides together

These steps are well explained in the pattern, but if you have any questions, post them and I'll get to them ASAP!

Tomorrow we are attaching the hood and hemming the sleeves and bottom hem!

44" Fabric Requirements

Alrighty, for those of you using cotton or another fabric on a 44" bolt, here are your fabric requirements.

12m   1 1/4 yards
2T      1 1/3 yards
3T      1 2/3 yards
4        2 yards
5        2 1/3 yards
6        2 1/3 yards
7        2 2/3 yards
8        3 yards
10      4 yards
12      4 1/3 yards

Below are the cutting layouts. The bottom edge is the fold, and the top edge is both selvedge edges. For sizes 10 and 12, you will cut the cloak front and back while the fabric is folded, then unfold the fabric and cut out the hood and sleeve pieces. (You can see this as the hood and sleeve don't all fit on the white part of the illustration)

Warrior Cloak Sew Along Day 1

Still need the pattern? Click here.

Today we are going to talk about how to measure your child and how much fabric you'll need.

The fabric requirements for the 60" bolt are on the previous blog, so you can use that measurement unless you need to add or subtract length to the garment. You want your garment to be approximately as long as the child's length from their C7 (the bony part of the spine that sticks out at the back of the neck) to their ankle with at least one inch added. If your child is younger or prone to tripping, you might want to shorten the cloak to reduce the tripping hazard.

Sewing for someone who doesn't live nearby? My general rule is to take their height and subtract 8". This tends to hit just at or above the floor for older children (size 10-12) and just below mid-calf for 2-3 year olds.

If you aren't sure how long you want the cloak to be, start with extra length. You can always hem it up later if you don't like it.

Here's a look at how I put my PDF patterns together. I line them up on my sliding glass door so that the sun shining through helps me line everything up correctly. Sometimes, the papers get a little wonky. Usually you can match up the lines and smooth out the paper if you take it apart and retape it. A little bit crooked won't affect the finished product, so don't drive yourself crazy over perfection. It is a larger pattern and everyone is probably going to hit a snag or two.

The seam allowance on this project is 3/8".

Suggested fabrics:
Non-stretch
Cotton, gabardine, wool, suitings
IMPORTANT NOTE: You must pre-wash your fabric before cutting to ensure they won't shrink!

Other materials:
Bias tape or a strip of fabric cut on the bias
Pattern printed out, then taped or glued together
Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
Straight pins
Sewing machine
Matching thread

Once you have your pattern put together and then cut out, cut out your pattern pieces. You should have:
- 2 cloak fronts
- 1 cloak back
- 2 hoods
- 2 sleeves

The back center (circled in red) is the measurement you'll adjust if you want to add or subtract length. You can just lengthen or shorten at the bottom of the pattern piece, but keep in mind that the sides (the two lines marked with green) need to be the same length so your sides will match up.

The pattern instructions say to turn hem 1/4", then 1/4" again. If you want to use a wider hem at the bottom, add that length.
Center back measurement - 1" = child's length from bottom of C7 to ankle.

**Example, my five year old is 33" from C7 to ankle. I would want the center back to be 34".

**My seven year old is 39" from C7 to ankle. Since she is older, I might consider having the cloak hit just above the floor. I would probably cut the center back at 42". 

Make sure that if you lengthen or shorten the back piece, that you lengthen or shorten the front piece the same amount.

60" Fabric Requirements! (and cutting layout)

Okay, the plan is to bombard you with information so there is no way you can go wrong!
I took a screen shot of each layout, so as long as you understand which way your fabric goes, you'll know exactly how to cut it, although its like a puzzle and as long as everything fits - it doesn't really matter how you get all your pieces cut out.

Here are the fabric requirements of a 60" width bolt (keep in mind, if you need extra length, you'll want to grab extra fabric)

Size 12 m - 1 yard
Size 2T     - 1 yard
Size 3T     - 1 yard
Size 4T     - 1 1/2 yards
Size 5T     - 1 1/2 yards
Size 6       - 1 2/3 yards
Size 7       - 1 7/8 yards
Size 8       - 2 7/8 yards
Size 10     - 3 1/8 yards
Size 12     - 3 1/3 yards


For sizes 1-7, you'll fold your 60" fabric so the selvedge edges meet. The top of the illustration is the selvedge edges and the bottom of the illustration is where the fold is. I'll include a photo if you are more visual.

Size 4 and 5

For sizes 10-12, the photo is arranged the same direction but your fold will be on the left. You will have a selvedge edge at the top and bottom. The pattern pieces extend the "fabric" on the layout, but you'll understand when you see the pictures.

Please let me know if you have any questions! I'm going to work on the fabric requirements for 44" width bolts this weekend and post those as I finish. Happy fabric shopping!

Gearing up for Tuesday's sew along!

Hey everyone!

Hope you are all doing well heading into this Halloween season. I'm up to my ears in orders, which will be a great way for me to take pictures and explain each step in more detail. First things first, I wanted to talk about material. The reason I haven't included fabric requirements in my pattern (yet) is because I will need to do it for both 60" bolts and 44" bolts.

I prefer to use gabardine for my cloaks because it has a great weight to it. You can also use cotton, but it will be a little bit see-through, especially when light hits it, and it won't be drawn to the ground as much because it hasn't got the same weight to it. I would also recommend suitings or wool blends unless your child has sensitive skin.

A quick materials list for Tuesday:
- Material (I'll get the fabric requirements posted on Sunday)
- Measuring tape
- Straight pins
- Seam ripper
- Sewing machine
- Universal needle
- Matching thread
- PDF pattern, printed out and taped together
- Scissors (one for your paper and one for your fabric)
 - Optional: bias tape (in the tutorial I'll be using a bias strip of the material)

Recommended:
- Cup of coffee
- Camera (in case you get stuck, or want to show off your cloak when you're finished)

Coming October 14th - a 3 day warrior cloak sew along!

For kids everywhere, Halloween is just around the corner. If you are a little intimidated by the prospect of sewing your own costume, it'll be okay! I promise. DIY costumes might seem intimidating, but this one is fairly easy and I'll walk you through it. If you're going with a Star Wars theme, I'm going to be hosting a sew along (even if you're just making the costume for dress up and not Halloween, please join us!) You can get the cloak pattern for free on Craftsy. It is completely customizable, and we will be covering measurements on the first day. My program deleted the fabric requirements so if you want to wait to download the pattern until I have those back up, that'll work just fine. Mark your calendars - October 14th, we will get started! http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/sewing/clothing/warrior-cloak/113360 https://www.etsy.com/listing/204389086/warrior-costume-cloak-pattern-and?

Winners Announcement!

Camo bunny is excited to ship to his new home with.... Callie Tilkins $12 credit to Sew Charming by Becky goes to.... Brittany Dawn Harper Congratulations ladies! Please contact me ASAP to claim your prize.

Sewing yourself up for Success - part 1 (Tools)

Okay scouts, you should know this one... in order to be successful you must first... be prepared!

This is very true for sewing. If you don't have the things you need, you'll be frustrated, rushed and stressed. Trust me, I've been there. Rushing leads to cutting corners, sometimes literally. Yes - I have cut projects where I didn't mean to. Shoot, I even cut my measuring tape in half when I didn't clean my cutting surface. I learned the hard way. Trust me, its not fun.

So, what do you need?

Fabric. Pre-washed. ALWAYS pre-wash. Nothing stinks more than making a masterpiece just to throw it into the washer and dryer and it no longer fits. 44" of cotton (regular width) shrinks 2" during the washing and drying process.

Color Catcher. Your reds and blues very well may bleed. I always suggest a Tide color catcher going in the wash with new vibrant fabrics. It will save (or, should) the rest of your load of laundry.

Fabric scissors. Yes, you need scissors for fabric. And only fabric. Cutting paper with fabric scissors dulls them. My husband knows I will cut him if he uses my fabric scissors for anything. That is, I would cut him if I didn't shoot angry lasers out of my eyes to kill him first.

Seam ripper. This undoes all the oopsies. My favorite is a Dritz seam ripper that has rubber watchamacallits on the end that actually 'sweeps' away all the tiny little pieces of thread that appear as you rip a seam.

Sewing machine. And manual. I won't be able to give you step by step instructions for how to thread your machine or what bobbin to use or which stitches your machine has - thats why you need your manual. If you don't have one, you can probably download one from the manufacturer's website. All you'll need is your model number.

Thread. It always looks best if you have it to match your fabric, but you don't have to. You can absolutely get by with the simple black or white thread. All of my sewing threads are Coats and Clark. (Be sure you have thread in the bobbin also)

Marking pen. I like the blue kind that disappears in water. There are chalks and pencils that will work also. The only one I don't recommend is the purple one that should disappear with exposure to the air, because one time it didn't disappear.

Measuring tape or ruler. I really strongly suggest getting a firm ruler. I have the 3" x 18" kind they sell by the rotary cutters. You can use a tape, but you'll have to be extra careful that its not bending when you are using it.

Needles. For different materials, you need different needles. For sewing cotton (which I suggest you use to begin), you can use a universal needle.

Pins. These are different than needles. You need pins to keep your fabric together in the right place until you sew it together. I suggest getting the kind with a plastic ball on the end if you plan on sewing a lot. If you have just plain metal pins, they will scratch your skin and if you pin enough, you'll end up with a hole in your thumb. Been there, done that. You can get WonderClips instead, but sometimes those are difficult to maneuver around.

Pin cushion or magnetic pin holder. Seriously, you need one. Otherwise the pins will end up in your carpet.

Seam guide. No idea what its called, but for younger sewists (each of my daughters has one) or those who tend to wander, this is a great tool for making sure your stitches are straight. It won't work on everything (like curves), but its a great tool! It magnetically attaches to the plate and you can adjust it so that your seam allowance should be spot on.

Lining and adding pockets to a fold over tote tute

Sorry, I had to say tote tute. LOL, I never use the word "tute" but I just had to!

Moving on, the body of what I used is here, on Me Sew Crazy, a blog I absolutely recommend you follow!


This is an intermediate tutorial as I did not take really detailed pictures. If I didn't explain something well enough that you can understand and replicate it, please post your questions and I'll answer!

I cut out the following:

• 4   rectangles 24″x21″ (2 of inner fabric, 2 of outer)
• 2   rectangles 4 inches by 26″ (outer fabric only)
• 1   4″x45 inch strip (outer fabric only)
• 4   4″ x 3″ inch rectangles (outer fabric only)
• 2   14 x 4" (these are my two outer pockets, if you want yours larger, make the adjustments before cutting) If you want to put a cell phone in one of these pockets, take your cell phone measurements, double the height and add 1"; and take the width and add 1.5". Example: your phone is 5" tall by 3" wide... 5x2=10, plus 1 is 11... 3+1.5= 4.5. Cut your pocket piece at 11x4.5".
• 1   40 x 6" (this is my inner pocket, again, if you want to adjust it, make all changes before cutting)

You will also need:

• 4 d rings or loops and 2 swivel purse attachments OR 6 swivel purse attachments (I recommend six swivel purse attachments, but that is not what I used.
• Ironing Board
• Iron
• Sewing Machine 
• Thread
• Scissors (I was being lazy and used my seam ripper to cut the thread after each piece I sewed.... I tried to will it to my hand from the cutting table, but the force is not strong with me)

My inside out pocket

The first thing I did was fold my pockets in half and sew so that three edges were closed.
 Then you flip your pocket so it is rightside out and there is only one side with raw edges. Serge or zig zag stitch over the raw edges. Attach it upside down to where you want the bottom of the pocket to be, and stitch. Then flip it so it isn't upside down anymore and stitch the sides down. For my mom's, I wanted small places to slide her crochet hooks into, so I ran extra stitch lines down one of my pockets.

This is where I turned my pockets upside down and then stitched where i wanted the bottom to be. When you flip the pocket up, what looks like the top will be the bottom.

See how the extra lines allow me to stand up my crochet needles? This would also work for pens and pencils.

For the inner pocket, folded in half hamburger style, then did everything in the last paragraph except for sewing the sides down. This pocket was wide enough that the sides would be caught when I sewed the side seam of the bag together, but you can do it now if you really want to be sure it stays sewn down.

The only other change I made to Palak's original pattern was to add two attachments with D-rings or swivels. This allows me to move my over the shoulder strap depending on how full it is. My D ring straps are 3" apart from each other.

After that, I put my shoulder straps where I would want them to go, and I put my lining on the outside. Be sure, at this point that your right sides are facing each other. You should not be able to see the pretty side of your fabric at all. Pin every 2-3" all the way around. Sew all the way around except for a 6" gap. Then turn the fabrics rightside out by pulling through the gap you just left.

Now all the is left is to topstitch all the way around the top. To be sure there wouldn't be a raw edge where the gap was, I used the far left stitch when the fabrics were rightside together, then I moved the needle to center for doing the topstitch. You don't *have to* but I recommend it!