Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Warrior Cloak Sew Along Day 1


Still need the pattern? Click here.

Today we are going to talk about how to measure your child and how much fabric you'll need.

The fabric requirements for the 60" bolt are on the previous blog, so you can use that measurement unless you need to add or subtract length to the garment. You want your garment to be approximately as long as the child's length from their C7 (the bony part of the spine that sticks out at the back of the neck) to their ankle with at least one inch added. If your child is younger or prone to tripping, you might want to shorten the cloak to reduce the tripping hazard.

Sewing for someone who doesn't live nearby? My general rule is to take their height and subtract 8". This tends to hit just at or above the floor for older children (size 10-12) and just below mid-calf for 2-3 year olds.

If you aren't sure how long you want the cloak to be, start with extra length. You can always hem it up later if you don't like it.

Here's a look at how I put my PDF patterns together. I line them up on my sliding glass door so that the sun shining through helps me line everything up correctly. Sometimes, the papers get a little wonky. Usually you can match up the lines and smooth out the paper if you take it apart and retape it. A little bit crooked won't affect the finished product, so don't drive yourself crazy over perfection. It is a larger pattern and everyone is probably going to hit a snag or two.

The seam allowance on this project is 3/8".

Suggested fabrics:
Non-stretch
Cotton, gabardine, wool, suitings
IMPORTANT NOTE: You must pre-wash your fabric before cutting to ensure they won't shrink!

Other materials:
Bias tape or a strip of fabric cut on the bias
Pattern printed out, then taped or glued together
Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
Straight pins
Sewing machine
Matching thread

Once you have your pattern put together and then cut out, cut out your pattern pieces. You should have:
- 2 cloak fronts
- 1 cloak back
- 2 hoods
- 2 sleeves

The back center (circled in red) is the measurement you'll adjust if you want to add or subtract length. You can just lengthen or shorten at the bottom of the pattern piece, but keep in mind that the sides (the two lines marked with green) need to be the same length so your sides will match up.

The pattern instructions say to turn hem 1/4", then 1/4" again. If you want to use a wider hem at the bottom, add that length.
Center back measurement - 1" = child's length from bottom of C7 to ankle.

**Example, my five year old is 33" from C7 to ankle. I would want the center back to be 34".

**My seven year old is 39" from C7 to ankle. Since she is older, I might consider having the cloak hit just above the floor. I would probably cut the center back at 42". 

Make sure that if you lengthen or shorten the back piece, that you lengthen or shorten the front piece the same amount.

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